One of the great benefits of my collaboration with Milk Street is sometimes getting a new cookbook before it publishes. One came last week, and I have been devouring the recipes and stories it contains. It is Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes by Christopher Kimball and J.M. Hirsch. It was apparent that both spent a great amount of time in Italy.

I loved the backroads stories of the recipes and sources of the ingredients used in Italian home cooking and small trattoria restaurants, tiny mountain eateries in small towns and coastal recipes handed down through ...
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